Sunday 28 April 2013

Wowza, What a Day!

Well, my first full day in Nepal was eventful to say the least... or at least it felt like it! Am really going to miss being able to simply write this blog to keep the memories, when I'm without Internet and having to actually write with a pen and diary it will take forever!

Anywho...

So jet lag is definitely about. I woke at 5am to absolute silence. After falling asleep to horns and all sorts of noises it was very peaceful. It wasn't until about 6:30 that the noises began and the first ones? Hoicking - not sure how to spell it but basically men in the area getting rid of flem, ick! So this is when I got up and headed downstairs.

In the restaurant/tv area three of the Nepalese men who worked at the hotel were sat watching a Nepalese action film so I joined them. Watched the rest of the film with them and a lovely cup of tea :-) One of the guys informed me it was a government holiday today so not all places/shops would be open, handy.

I then decided to try to get to the CIWEC clinic to get my final vaccine. The easy option is to grab a rickshaw there. I decided since I was in no particular hurry I would try get there just with a map. Well, I did manage to get there. But only by using the places of interest on the map as a guide, so embassies, restaurants, shops, etc all guided me there. Don't know why they bother to use normal maps because with the crazy roads here they are impossible to follow the normal way!

Oh and once at the clinic I chatted with the nurse and we both agreed I would wait til I got back from my trek to get the last jab. There are a lot of people that get bad headaches etc after the injection. Since I fly to altitude tomorrow, not a good idea. 

After leaving there I started to wander back to Thamel but got very, very lost. I will blame the pig on a roadside table, cut in half and painted bright orange, for getting me lost. Ewwww... was so ick! Am glad I've decided to stay away from meat while in Nepal!!

About an hour after wandering the streets of Kathmandu I stumbled upon a massive park (& I mean MASSIVE) with hundreds of locals playing cricket (& some playing football). I went through the park gate (sidestepping the barbed wire surrounding the entry) and went and sat under a tree and watched them. At one point I thought I had perhaps come to the end of action as some players packed up and left, but minutes later others would arrive and start playing. Sat there and ate some fruit cake (given to me by a lady on the mail run, and surprisingly the best snack to have handy!). To one side of the field there were gorgeous purple trees in the distance. The whole field was a complete contrast to the main road and craziness that was outside the park fences.

After relaxing at the park I then left to try get myself back to Thamel for some lunch. It took me an hour to stumble back in the right place. And the craziest hour where I didn't see any other tourists for some time. One wee street was full of meat on display including chicken and fish just sat in the heat. Again another reason not to eat meat here! I passed on wee girl who couldn't have been a day over 3 years old and she had full blown eye make up and all on! Quite a contrast to the surroundings.

I had lunch at the back of a book store. My lunch was vegetarian momos and OMG they were spicy. Mike made me momos as an entree the night I left NZ and gotta say they are winning over Nepal momos right now. My entree was followed by venison stragonoff made by Tash (mmmm... meat). And the dessert was Guiness and Maple Bacon cupcakes... mmmm............... Not too shabby send off eh?

Anywho, this book store was awesome (Called Pilgrims and in the centre of Thamel). While browsing in one of the wee corners of the store the power went off for about 30 seconds.. pitch black in the book shop but business as usual.  Shoplifters paradise maybe?? Haha

For dinner I went to Helena's Restaurant which had thee best rooftop terrace! Although it took 8+ levels of stairs to get there... I asked the waiter where the kitchen was - at the bottom of all those stairs. He definitely earned his tip! I had 360 views up there and the sun was slowly setting so was gorgeous! It seems Kathmandu is surrounded by mountains which I didn't realise. And I was surprised by the number of solar panels on top of all the buildings that surrounded me. Although I probably shouldn't have been considering the constant power cuts (load shedding).

After a little retail therapy I went to the rooftop terrace of the hotel and sat reading. Another guest of the hotel was there playing a guitar so that was lovely. I got chatting to him and although I could've sworn he had an American accent, he was from South India and called Praym. Or as he says, a delicious prayer (Pray mmmmmmm...). He had lived in Nepal for three years so knew the place well. Although I had already had dinner I went with him to a proper authentic local restaurant. And when I say restaurant I mean a place to eat the size of a single bedroom and the naan bread is cooked next to you. The most expensive meal there was $2.50. I was so annoyed I'd already eaten, the naan bread looked and smelled amazing! I ordered a milk tea. My very first one and OMG it was delish! Although may have been the sugar in it since I don't usually have sugar in my teas.

The place was always very packed and we had a German couple join us for dinner. They were trekking too but dong a 12 day trek to the Gokyo Lakes. Just after I had ordered my second milk tea the power went off (as per usual). So we were all sat there in pitch black! The wife of the owner quickly brought candles to all the tables and business continued as usual. During the pitch blackness my second milk tea had actually arrived. I hadn't even seen them bring it so they must be used to working in the dark. When walking back to the hotel it was a different place altogether.. apart from the odd motorcycle driving past and a couple of windows lit up by battery/solar, it was pitch black. Gotta say the power cut did add to my first authentic Nepal experience.

One thing Praym did mention to me was the coming monsoon season. He said the thunder storms that I will experience will be like nothing I have ever known. Apparently, in Kathmandu it can feel like the thunderstorms are shaking the entire city. And you can go out on a gorgeous day to only find an hour later the sky becomes totally dark & a massive storm has arrived! Ooooooo... cannot wait for these storms! Although I do hope I am indoors when they occur!! Any chance??

The power was out for around 4 hours before coming back on. And this morning as I began to write this blog, the power went out again and so the computer died on me. The power came back on but the computer didn't unfortunately. Thankfully, Blogger saves what I write as I go! One of the hotel guys gave me his iPad (can you believe) to use. But now at a wee dodge internet cafe down the road.

Oh, and random little thing about my hotel. At night from about 5pm an army type man is sat at the front gates of the guest house for the whole night. While the power was out last night I was on the balcony watching him too and at about 10pm he shut the front gates and then sat by them. Quite secure then! 

Ohhh maaannn... Power just gone off here as well yet again. Just for about 30 seconds... adds to the character of Kathmandu I suppose!

Oh and one wee thing I want to add that upset me yesterday. On my first day here I had seen how crazy the traffic was. They even toot like made at poor old ladies trying to cross the road! No manners (on the road anyway). But as walking I saw the traffic come to a standstill for something. On reaching the standstill point I see the cutest wee black kitten in the middle of the road. So myself and a Nepalese man shoo the wee kitten off the road and traffic commences to craziness again. Thought that was so lovely that they did stop for the kitten! So what upset me? Yesterday, I was walking not far from where that had happened and saw the wee kitten on the side of the road after having been hit by the traffic. I know it happens everywhere but was so damn little the poor wee thing, very, very sad :'-(

Oh and using nylon string and a swiss army knife I made my own clothes line in my room! Hand washed my clothes in the shower with sunlight soap and hung on my awesome line. The next Bear Grylls, so I am. 

Well today I am changing hotels and tonight will be having dinner with the CEO of my trek and my trekking buddies (15 of us + CEO + Porters). Then on Monday we fly to Lukla to begin our trek.

EXCITED!!!!!!!








Friday 26 April 2013

I have Arrived!

WOW.

I have arrived in Kathmandu.


This place is incredible! The date here today in Nepal is 26/04/2070. Although I have technically stepped in the future, it really feels like I have stepped back in time. 

My flight over was uneventful up until I reached Kuala Lumpur. My flight was to depart from gate G8 and there were two big lines of people going through security before boarding the flight. My plan was to just sit to the side til the line disappeared, and wasn't too concerned when I couldn't quite hear anything being said over the loud speaker - although thought I heard my name pronounced badly over it (still not sure if I did). Turns out all those people weren't going to Nepal.

An airport man was rushing through the crowds of people yelling, "KATHMANDU, KATHMANDU!" so I ran to him and he raced me through to the flight (very embarrassing as there were lots of people everywhere!). Great start, nearly missed my flight!

On the flight I sat next to a man and woman from Holland who had started a personal leadership company for street kids in Nepal. They had a wee 10 month old baby boy named Bruce who was joining them. Poor wee man had the most horrible cough on him. His Dad told me he had nearly died of Whooping Cough in his very small 10 months. But he was on the mend now :)

Arriving in Kathmandu was amazing. As we flew in I could see the Himalayas, and as we got lower I got see the craziness that is Nepal. It was like arriving in a movie from back in time! I may have shed a tear. After years of wanting to do Everest Base Camp, I was here.

Unfortunately, the pilot advised us it was 33 degrees today, ahhh..... I was working the whole hiking boots and skinny jeans look, so getting off the plane was like stepping into a sauna! Getting my visa was uneventful but loooooonnnnnnnnnggggg. The Nepalese are soooo lovely and friendly though! 

OMG getting my big backpack on was actually a nightmare haha... it is soooo heavy and had had Dad or Mike there to put it on my back the day I left. I literally had to sit it up, sit on the floor, put my arms through the straps, and very badly stand up. Thankfully, no one around noticed!!

From the time that I left the arrivals I seemed to have an 'entourage' of around 10 Nepalese men. They wanted to help me with my bags (for a tip) and get me a taxi. Even when I went to the shop to get a sim card for my basic phone they hung about! As I went outside I had them all trying to get me in their taxi. Saying I will give you special price of 800 rupees. When I turned around and said, "No, I will only go with a taxi offering 400 rupees", they all told me about fuel shortages and that I would never get anything lower than 800. 

Well... I got in a taxi with Arjun for 500 rupees. Not bad for my first go at bargaining eh? Oh and when I say taxi, I mean the tiniest Suzuki car that doesn't look roadworthy hehe. I put my bags in the back and jumped in the front seat. A porter wouldn't let me shut my door saying I owed him a tip for helping me with my bags - which he hadn't! My reaction, "Mate, you didn't help me so you aren't getting a tip, now get out of my way." And then proceeded to shut the door on him. 

The taxi ride was fab. Although it wasn't until Arjun took me up some back roads that I thought to myself, " Hmmmm... I wonder if getting in this random taxi was smart?" 

But the drive was ridiculously awesome! I know with the traffic I should've been freaking but I was loving it. I had a seriously goofy grin on my face the whole time. I didn't know where to look there was so much going on. And I got very excited seeing a couple of calves on the streets, then turning onto a bridge where a big bull was sat and cars avoiding him. Arjun was chatting away, very friendly, and even offered to drive me wherever I liked the next day from 9am til 5pm for US$28. I did decline though. The roads are rougher than any farm races I've known in NZ, so driving is a bit bumpy! I will explore on foot. 

Arjun dropped me at Kathmandu Madhuban Guest House which I had booked for only NZ$15 after reading reviews on TripAdvisor about the friendliness of staff. The hotel is very basic but I have my own balcony overlooking the streets, and a toilet that flushes - so I'm happy! I immediately dropped my things and went to go get some bottled water. As I wandered out of the Guest House the owner ran out after me and gave me a card with the address of the hotel on it and its phone number. He asked where I was off to and on explaining he showed me the best places. We shook hands (although I went in with my left hand - the dirty hand in Nepal - but he just laughed when I quickly changed hands) and I was on my merry way. 

I spent a couple of hours just exploring the streets and just wandering. I have come back to the hotel now because it can get a bit tiring trying to not get run over! There aren't really footpaths so it gets a bit crazy out there! I did get lost for a wee while but just kept wandering til I found my way. I was actually try to find the milkshake place Tash and Mike had told me about. It has its own generator so one of the few places you can get one - and any cold drinks for that matter! They've given me a map of how to get there from Kathmandu Guest House, only I couldn't find the Guest House so will check that out tomorrow.

Right now I am sat in the reception area of my guest house using their computer. I must report here that the internet is faster than Dad's (Dad they have broadband here - you need to catch up! :P). I am soon going to head out again to get some dinner. This is the one city in the whole wide world (or that I have been to) where I haven't seen a McDonalds or KFC. Of course, I'm planning to get the national staple of Dhal Baat - Lentil soup with Rice, Chutney and Curried Veges. Of course, I will be getting the vegetarian version. 

Anywho, I am off! My tummy is rumbling! 


 

Thursday 25 April 2013

Embrace the Craziness

I leave for Nepal today!

Yup, the day has finally arrived. I am now all packed and mostly ready to go on my big adventure. Super, SUPER excited!

I think I have most things I need... when packing it was very much a matter of 'Do I want these because they're cute or because they're practical?' And in most cases, they weren't practical so they didn't get packed.

No matter what I do I will have have that feeling of 'I've forgotten something.' Technically I know what I have forgotten and that is EVERYTHING. Packing light is hard, but I am all done.

So now there is just getting to the airport and jumping on the plane.

It really doesn't feel real at the moment. For me, this is such a massive trip, so completely and totally out of my comfort zone. Really it is no wonder it doesn't feel real. All I have is excitement and an attitude that is summed up by advice from Tash, 'Embrace the craziness'. I know this is an adventure that many people only dream of doing, and I always thought I would be in that group of people too. Bring it on!

Before I finish this post, I must say thank you. So many friends and family (& even strangers) from all over the world have encouraged and supported me throughout my preparation for this trip. No achievement in life is done by yourself - there is always a team of people there helping. So thank you everyone, you all know who you are and how you have contributed.

So now all there is to say is namaskaar (Goodbye in Nepalese).

NAMASKAAR






Friday 12 April 2013

Altitude Training Begins

Well I have been SUPER busy this week sorting things for my big adventure! And altitude training has begun. Keegan has shown me all I need to know to use the altitude machine. It can be used on different levels starting at Level One (altitude at 2,800m) to Level 5 (altitude at 5,800m). Keegan advised I should start at the lower level and work my way up. Well, on my first session, not knowing if it would truly work, I started on Level 5...
 
Altitude training. Just missing my cuppa tea.
You breath through the mask for five minutes and then breathe without the mask for 5 minutes and do this for an hour. The mask is hand held as well which can be annoying - they don't put the strap on as it is considered dangerous doing so.

So, bring it on Level 5. After 40 minutes I felt quite dizzy and had a killer headache so I turned to Keegan to ask if a headache was normal. Right away he told me not to do any more. First session done. You can feel nauseous or dizzy through the sessions, but headaches mean you have done too much so the next day I went to Level 1 to do as I was told!!
 
I mentioned in an earlier post that I had brought my hiking boots. On Sunday I decided to wear them in with a hike up to the summit of Mount Te Aroha - a local hike that is known for its difficulty. I took my cousin Tayla with me and we set off in the morning. With a packed lunch and not a whole lot of motivation we began...

This hike is literally ALL up hill. And I mean ALL. Many parts you are literally climbing up tree roots or simply rock climbing. We stopped for lots of breaks to refresh our poor, fuming legs. I have never sweat so much, I literally had sweat dripping off my face, ick! I think that bothered me more than the pain. The final climb to the top of Mt Te Aroha is literally that, a climb. But we made it after 1 hour 40 minutes, a lot quicker than the 2 hours 30 minutes it usually takes.
 
We sat at the top for around an hour having a picnic lunch... it was gorgeous!! 360 views with the blue sky; so clear you could see all around. Was lovely just sitting up there, although I was raging when I heard another hiker mention her hot tea in her thermos... could not have been more jealous, was freezing up there - a tea would have been bliss!
 
Mt Te Aroha Pictures


Mt Te Aroha

Walking up Mt Te Aroha

Made It!!
Best spot for a picnic lunch.
And walking back down.
Motivation since the marathon has been hard. Very hard.
 
However, on Wednesday I had my best hills run EVER. Is amazing how, prior to the run I could SO not be bothered. I just wanted to sit on the sofa and have a cuppa tea and some Tim Tams. And yet, I put on my shoes and went. I listened to Beyonce and Jessie J as I ran and was surprised to feel myself basically sprinting the whole way - even up the hills! It felt great. I ran the 10km of Kakahu Road hills in 54 minutes. Very fast! Very PROUD!
 
And so now I have less than two weeks before I fly off to my Nepal adventure.
 
I was talking to a friend, Chantal, during the week. I mentioned to her how, when I arrive, I haven't arranged any transfers, and in fact didn't even know where the airport was. I wanted to start my trip with a challenge and adventure: start lost. Well, Chantal soon sorted me out. She pointed out that after 20 hours travelling arriving in a strange and crazy country would be enough.
In fact, Tash (who has done Everest Base Camp) had said to me recently, "Just wait til you land and a bunch of Nepalese men try to grab you and your bag to get a tip. Strap that pack on and don't let go! You're about to arrive in unorganised madness and eventually you will learn to love it." 
 
I have two months to have adventures so perhaps I will save the challenges until then... Might just go Google where the airport is right now and look at how I will get there. Will be enough surprises when I arrive!

Friday 5 April 2013

Procrastination with a Capital P

Oooo... in just 3 weeks I will be wandering the streets of Nepal! Super, DUPER, excited!! And with my big adventure creeping up on me you would think I would be super organised, right? NOPE. I wrote a To Do List a few months ago with the essentials that I must not forget to do. Today I went through them and, well, could only tick off a few things! I have always been a procrastinator, and even brought a book about how to stop procrastinating - but unfortunately never got round to reading it. So here I am, writing this post, instead of getting things sorted.
 
Big shoes for big dreams! Everest Base Camp I'm ready!
But I did sort my hiking boots. I had no choice really, everyone kept asking, 'Have you got your boots yet?' and telling me I needed them ASAP so I could wear them in. So on the weekend of my marathon I popped into Kathmandu (love its name ;-P) and checked out their hiking boots. I got the first pair I tried on and also got some bug repellent hiking socks (watch out leeches!). And now I have been wearing my boots everywhere - last night I had them on with my PJs, totally going to start a trend!
 
My training has completely changed focus - now I am focused on getting to Base Camp (not space camp - my friend Tory from Manchester thought I was going to 'space camp' for half an evening!) My marathon coach has now become my Base Camp coach. My training involves hills/fast running, hiking, and altitude training. As I have said in an earlier blog, I'm lucky that Keegan has some sort of altitude machine that I will be able to use to get my body at least a little used to what the breathing will be like. I start that tomorrow so watch this space for how that goes...
 
Getting back to training has actually been really difficult. I didn't run until just over a week after the marathon. And during this time was the Easter holidays which I spent at the beach drinking, eating, and chilling out. So my first run was horrible. I only went for 30 minutes but OMG it was the hardest 30 minutes. My poor knees ached. The day after I felt like an old lady with rickety old bones. Couldn't believe it. When I groaned to Keegan he said it was normal - man, our bodies are strange!
 
I suppose I should go now and start to look at actually getting things on my To Do List done. I haven't even got a big backpack yet... or insect repellent. And I need to have one more blood test (for TB). And actually I need a sleeping bag... and take my last oral vaccine (involves not eating for hours, booo!)....and buy a mosquito net... and order US dollars...  and... AND... and.... ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...
 
Right, I'm going to go and stop procrastinating now.